Ending Your Car Engine Sludge Problem: Remedies That Work!

Engine sludge formation. Here is how it gets in your motor. And a new, inexpensive way to remove sludge without the need to take your motor apart.

When your car is about 4 years old and older. When your car’s odometer miles run pass 75,000 miles, sticky residues; leftovers from pass oil changes, begin to build faster and gum-up your motors piston rings. Your motors dirty piston rings are the primary cause of sludge formation. It happens in this way.

Your motor’s pistons have 3, 1/8 inch thick flexible, bracelet-like rings that have a springy nature to them. This keeps them ever expanding outward to provide blockage to keep your motor oil from escaping into the combustion cycle. And keep your fuels combustion gases totally above the piston. Its all needed to push your piston down, spinning gears, and wheels to propel you forward with zip and ease. Sludge begins when…

Engine sludge formation occurs when your piston rings allows those1500 degree combustion gases to slip pass them. This happens when dirty piston ring flexing outward action is slowed or reduced. A gap appears and with each burst of new combustion, little puffs of combustion escape pass your pistons and mix with your motor oil.

Well anyhow, there is always some escape of combustion, called blowby by us mechanics, even when your pistons rings work perfectly well. When rings and cylinder wear spaces allow more combustion to escape, you sludge your motor oil in a month of driving and you, by motor design vent it to the outside world. That is no good for air, water, old folks and children with breathing problems.

To prevent your cars heavily loaded combustion gases; containing a handful of suphurs, 5 gallons of raw gas, carbon black, and dozens of other negatives from being dumped into the air every 3000 miles of driving, a device is made to block its escape. Instead it is channel back into the combustion process. This is done by a thumb size check valve and hoses in a new motor sub-system called the positive crankcase ventilation system.

The positive crankcase ventilation system is overpowered by all that sticky, hot blowby and soon chokes down the blowby flow. When that happens sludge formation goes bonkers, like kids during their first year on the loose at college. Kids party. Sludge forms a 1/4 inch layer over every part. Kids know better. your motor does not!

The fix: Soon, your car starts losing its zip. It may consume motor oil. It may tap. Your exhaust smells worst than than your kids tennis after soccer practice. Friction wear is now running rampant. The usual fix is an overhaul at $3000 or more. Or a partial cleaning called an engine valve repair at up to $2000 in cost. Its a nasty, time consuming job to take apart and clean every part.

Engine Flushing. You may have read about all kinds of flushing methods from stepping on two frogs, to putting automatic transmission fluid and solvent in your motor to clean out the sludge. parts stores even sell engine flushes, which are solvents to do the job.

The bad thing about solvent motor flushes is they strip your pistons, bearings, valves, and gears of their vital oil lube film as they rinse away the sludge. And some of that sludge, during circulation, reform in all the wrong places. Usually blocking your motor’s oil pump pickup screen. About a week of driving after such a cleaning, your motor goes in convulsions. The mechanic say, in diagnosis,”It’s shot!”

New products to safely remove sludge using anti-wear cleaners are what is needed, if engine sludge is your motor’s problem. A leader in the field for internal engine cleaning and sludge removal with engine restorative ingredients is Mega Power. The Mega Power Sludge Removing Worn Motor Treatment is fast, and takes less than a hour. Mega Power is safe because it has friction reducers that lube even without the presence of oil. and it removes sludge over a 6000 miles time span. Instant restorative power results. Cost is under $100 – not $3000. And you can install the treatment yourself. Nothing to take apart. Driving does the cleaning. You can learn more and get ordering info at:

2006 Acura RSX: The Luxurious Sports Car

Transforming advanced styling and performance for drivers is the 2006 Acura RSX. This new vehicle dominates the open road. It is one of the most popular vehicles out in the streets and this is also one vehicle that people like to be seen with. The 2006 Acura RSX has been made available in two trim levels. This comprise of the RSX and the RSX Type S. Upon introduction, both come equipped with a 2.0 liter engine that is very powerful and can produce around 200 horsepower.

The interior of the 2006 Acura RSX boasts of luxury. It is also shows off a sporty look and luxury details all throughout. Its interior has been compared to that of a race car’s. The driver-oriented cockpit of the RSX wraps around the driver. Each switch, and each control, has been strategically positioned for intuitive interaction between the driver and the 2006 Acura RSX. The specifications of this vehicle have greatly improved. Considerably, it could be the best car that Acura the company has ever offered the automobile world.

Behind the luxurious and sophisticated interior and the sporty design that the 2006 Acura RSX delivers, everything is enclosed and surrounded by a foundation of safety. This vehicle has been specially designed so as to help drivers steer clear of trouble. It also assists in protecting ht driver and its occupants in cases of accidents, crashes, or collisions. The standard safety features that the 2006 Acura RSX has includes side-impact crash zones, airbags, and pretension seatbelts.

Although the 2006 Acura RSX kind of lacks the occasional front-drive darting feature, and the lack of technology features, this new vehicle would still be your kind of car that would offer superior handling, a decent sound system, and an i-VTEC engine that produces efficient power production.

The features that the 2006 Acura RSX boasts of include standard airbags, a roadside assistance, an adaptive cruise control, and antilock brakes. As per other features, this vehicle has a smart climate control that lets you just set it and then forget it, a keyless entry, a two-way security system, a 12 volt power outlet, an available front drive drivetrain, a brake by wire, a drive by wire, the OnStar system, and a roadside assistance system.

The 2006 Acura RSX holds sporty bolstered seats that have integrated headrests. This hugs the driver while on the road. Another set of features include a steering wheel wrapped in leather, gauges having a metallic face, power windows, power locks, power mirrors, and a premium sound system. All these create a sporty and luxurious atmosphere.

How to Correct Your Plastic Model Car Painting Mistakes

“Oh no, now I’ve done it.” You have just applied to much paint and created huge sagging paint globs to your once perfect model. That perfect contest winning finish you were hoping for is now a disaster.

All is not lost however. You can fix just about any paint mistake that you have made on your contest model with just a bit of work. With a careful paint sanding technique, you can create a perfect finish.

Using four techniques; paint standing, re-spray, paint polish and wax, you can fix just about any mistake you make. I will show you how to use these techniques to fix your model and bring it back to contest level.

Paint standing is the first technique we will use to correct and over spray or orange peel situation you have created on your model. Orange peel is just extra paint that is applied to thickly and ends up making the surface of your model looked like the outside of an orange. The easiest technique I’ve found to correct this kind of situation is just to use sandpaper to grind off the extra paint. The hardest part of doing this is not to stand into the details sticking out of the surface of your model.

There are many different grades or grits of sandpaper. I basically classify sandpaper into two types, rough and fine. Rough sandpaper comes in grit numbers from 100 to 1000. The lower the number the more course it is. For heavy paint removal I typically use number 320 grit. Fine sandpaper runs from 2000 through 12000 grit. This fine grit is one secret to getting to a perfect finish.

Sandpaper comes with different kinds of backing. I prefer cloth backing over the cheaper paper backing because generally I use only a wet sanding technique. Wet sanding is where you use water to help lubricate the surface of the model and generally works better for my model paints.

Your first task is to let your paint mistake dry completely. Then start the uneven paint removal with a rough grit sanding being very careful not to sand into any plastic detail of your model. I will cut the sandpaper into very small pieces and hold them or glue them to wooden “tools” to get into small places. I will also use paint thinner to soften paint buildup around detailed areas keeping in mind that you do not want to ruin the plastic.

Once this is done, re-spray paint the damaged area.

Continue this process of sanding and re-spraying until you are satisfied with the finish. At this stage you are now ready to fine sand the paint.

Fine sanding is really the true secret to a perfect paint finish. I work the paint finish by sanding the paint using these grits in order.

2400

3200

4000

6000

8000

12000

The sandpaper I like to use is sandwiched between foam so that it conforms to the surface of the model more easily. Each step uses the wet sanding technique with water. Change your sanding strokes in different directions and try not to use a lot of pressure. At the end of this paint sanding sequence the surface of your model should be very even and smooth. This will bring us to the next step which is polishing the paint.

Paint polish is the next secret to that near perfect paint finish for your contest winning model. I prefer Novus plastic paint polish. I work the paint to a fine mirror finish by using No. 3, No.2, and then No.1 in sequence. This sets you up for the final step which is wax protection.

Wax protection is the final step in and creating your contest winning the model finish.

I use Meguiar’s mirror glaze #26 professional high tech yellow wax. You can find this at any automotive parts store. I apply it with a soft cloth and buff the paint to a showroom finish.

Well there you have it. It is a lot of work but it is well worth the effort. In the end you have fixed your pain problem and come out with a model that has a complete showroom and contest winning finish.

Advantages of Using Car Wreckers

Disposing of old automobile parts and accessories is a difficult task that relies on innovative technology and expertise. Car wreckers have the heavy-duty tools and know-how to dismantle the wide range of vehicles that have no future practical purpose. Many of the vehicles in these yards are old, no longer operable, severely damage, or deemed to be a total write-off by insurance companies.

The process of breaking down a car and using or recycling the parts is much more favorable than using a landfill site. This not only gives an economic advantage, but also has the ability to offer environmental benefits.

Here are several benefits that relate to using the services of the car wreckers:

Saves you money

Car wreckers generally have a long list of genuine vehicle parts in stock that can be purchased at a very attractive price. Buying second-hand parts from a yard has the potential to save 50% to 90% of the store-bought prices. Before crushing the body of the car the reusable parts are removed with the intention of selling on in the future. So, for the car restorers, gear-heads, or others planning vehicle maintenance, repairs, or an upgrade, a first stop to source the required auto parts or accessories can include the car wreckers.

Environmentally friendly

Car wreckers offer the more eco-friendly solution to help dispose of an old or neglected vehicle. Cars left on barren land or landfill sites will at some point start to leak harmful chemicals or pollutants into the ground or the atmosphere. This will result in long-term damage to the local soil or water sources and make it difficult for the same ground to be used for other purposes in the future.

Nearly 76% of all parts in an automobile can be reused in another car or truck which is appreciated for its ability to give long-term benefits to the planet. Many of the salvaged materials from the wrecked vehicle are reused in the automobile industry. For instance, rubber sourced from an old vehicle can be recycled and used in the production of floor mats, gas pedals, and tires.

Earn a profit

For those planning to have their old vehicles removed by the car wreckers it is possible to get cash reward in return for some of the metallic parts inside the car. After dismantling a vehicle, the yards, rely on a high-powered magnet which has the capacity to easily collect every last piece of scrap metal which is resold to other companies that have a practical need for it.

In addition to collecting the metallic parts, the car wreckers can also drain the vehicle’s fluids like oil, coolant, and gas, which is sold on to other parties or reused in the fully functional vehicle.

Buy obsolete parts

With the speed in which automobile technology is progressing, it can be difficult to source certain tools, parts, and accessories which are deemed to be obsolete. So, for those searching for parts to fit the older vehicle model long out of production, it can help to get in contact with a local car wrecker company to see if they have the types of parts and accessories needed. Most of these services are likely to dismantle all makes and models of vehicle, so are more likely to have a greater inventory of old stock compared to the automobile shop.

In view of the fact that automobiles are one of the most recycled products, there should be no shortage of supplies need in the process of completing a future upgrade or renovation.

Insider Secret To A Show Car Paint Finish

Have you tried polishing a car by hand lately? If you have, you might think your car polish is defective when the real issue is your vehicle’s paint. That’s because automotive paint finishes have become much harder in the past few years, allowing them to last longer and resist scratching and chipping like never before.

The changes in paint technology, while very beneficial, have introduced a new problem for car owners. While it was possible to maintain automobile paintwork by hand just a few years ago, today’s new paint finishes make it nearly impossible. If your vehicle’s paintwork has minor scratches, swirl marks or water spot etching, you will need a buffer polisher to correct the problem. The good news is that the number one buffing machine for both home and professional use, the Porter Cable 7424, is very effective on even the most modern paint finishes, including the latest ceramic paints used by Mercedes-Benz.

The original Porter Cable Polisher and the new 7424xp are dual-action polishers. What this means is that the polishing head rotates (free-spins on its spindle) and orbits (powered by the motor) around the center spindle. A mass counterweight mechanism on the spindle dampens vibrations. This polishing action, often referred to as “random orbital” or just “orbital,” totally prevents symmetrical buffing marks, paint burns and the other types of automotive finish damage that people associate with high-speed buffing machines. That means if you use the polisher as intended it’s virtually impossible to damage your car, even with no experience.

This type of electric polisher closely mimics the motion of circular hand polishing. Imagine being able to make 2,500 to 6,000 tight hand circles in a single minute. That should give you a pretty good idea of how this machine does its job. Basically it works just like you do, only at super-human speed. Plus, it never gets tired!

If you have previously owned a car waxing machine that made a lot of racket, but did little else to fix the damage and restore shine, you will appreciate the brilliance of one of these buffing machines. It has all of the power needed to get the job done, yet it’s small enough and light enough that it’s easy to use.

The secret to using a dual action polisher with shining results is choosing the right polish and polishing pads for the job. Basically polishing pads come in three grades: cutting, polishing and finishing. A cutting pad is coarse and used to remove damage. A polishing pad has a bit if coarseness, but not much. It’s used to remove very minor damage and restore full gloss. A finishing pad is very soft. It’s used to polish without cutting and to apply waxes and glazes.

You must use an appropriate polish with each type of pad. Like the pads themselves, polishes have different grades of cut. A compound, for example, is a cutting polish. Compounds are rated by the level of sanding scratch they can remove. A compound designed to remove 2000 to 2500 grit sanding scratches will effectively remove swirl marks and water spots, whereas a product that can remove 1200 to 1500 grit sanding marks will remove fine scratches. If you can feel a scratch with your fingernail, you should remove it with 2000 grit wet and dry sandpaper before polishing.

If you’re confused about which polish to use to remove swirl marks, fine scratches and water spots, let me recommend Meguiar’s Ultimate Compound. It’s probably the best consumer grade product available today, and it’s easy to find at your local auto parts store.

After compounding to remove damage, you might think the finish looks great, but I recommend finishing off the job with a fine polish. Most compounds, including the new Meguiar’s product, will leave just a touch of hazing in the clear coat. All it takes to remove the hazing and restore a brilliant shine is a fine paint polish. I prefer and recommend Klasse All-In-One. It’s an amazing product that will produce a final finish that blows you away.

New automotive paints may be too hard to maintain by hand, but the solution is easy. A Porter Cable 7424xp gets the job done faster that you ever could by hand, and it’s a quality machine that will last a lifetime.